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Tony Streather : ウィキペディア英語版
Tony Streather
Harry Reginald Anthony "Tony" Streather (born 24 March 1926) is a former English army officer and mountaineer who first-ascended Tirich Mir and Kangchenjunga.
As a captain posted to the Chitral region of Pakistan, Streather was the official government representative in a Norwegian expedition that made the first ascent in 1951 of Tirich Mir (7,710 m), the highest mountain of the Hindu Kush. He was initially appointed transport officer, but became a member of the successful summiting team.〔Jim Curran, (Army Dreamer....... A Portrait of Tony Streather )〕 On his return to Britain he was invited to join the Alpine Club (he later became its president), and was selected for trials for the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.〔 He was rejected for the latter because of a lack of technical experience, but nearly at the same time was invited to join the 1953 American Karakoram Expedition, which attempted a far more technical route up K2, the second highest mountain in the world. Though again originally in charge of logistics, he climbed as high as anyone else and was involved in the dramatic events at 7,800 m.
In 1955, Streather participated in the first ascent of Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. With Norman Hardie, he reached the summit the day after the first summit party of Joe Brown and George Band. In 1957 he survived an epic near-ascent of Haramosh (7,397 m). In 1959 he led a successful expedition that included an ascent of on Malubiting Southeast (6,970).〔(H. R. A. Streather: ''Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959, Chogo Lungma Region, Karakoram.'' In: American Alpine Journal 1961, S. 413f. (AAJO) )〕
==References==


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